Is the era of the Thailand backpacker over? The editor of Luxury Travel Magazine recently said that Thailand is now the destination of choice for people searching boutique hotels and upmarket spas. People have been saying this for a while, calling it the end of backpacking.
Newley wrote an interesting article last year in the NY Times. The title of his article, which is about Khaosan Road, is “A Hippie Haven Goes Upscale”, which I think says it all.
The lede of the article goes like this:
In the 2000 film “The Beach,” Leonardo DiCaprio’s character travels to Thailand, and, like countless backpackers before him, stays in a dingy guesthouse on Bangkok’s legendary Khao San Road. But if the movie were shot today, Mr. DiCaprio would encounter not only rough-and-ready tattoo parlors and street vendors selling cheap banana pancakes, but also up-market amenities: a spa offering body wraps and salt scrubs, for instance, and, inevitably, a Starbucks.
Although this upmarket side is creeping in, it’s in a constant battle with the hippie side of life. I don’t know if it’s Thailand that is changing or the way people travel.
When I first arrived in Thailand, whenever I traveled, be it to Lopburi or Koh Chang, I’d always travel by bus or train and stay in the cheapest places. Having work commitments doesn’t allow me that “luxury” so much any more as the only traveling I do is by motorbike around Phuket. If I were to be carefree and back in Bangkok, I think I’d still travel on a shoestring.
I don’t think backpacking is dying. Friends of mine still come to Thailand on their way to and from half a dozen countries, with limited budgets and backpacks in tow. What is perhaps changing is the type of people Thailand appeals to.
The last time I walked down Khaosan Road was about a month ago. I didn’t feel as if the place had changed much in the three years since I first arrived. I was still able to buy a tray of pad Thai from a street vendor as I was the day I first stepped on that street.
There’s no denying that development has perhaps tainted the hippie trail in Thailand. It is becoming a little more difficult to find those real budget digs and restaurants on the islands, but it’s not so much that you can’t travel the entire country without spending a whole lot of dollar; you just have to look a little harder for the real bargains.
Who knows, in 20 years they may be no such thing as “backpacking”.