At this time of year, the most common question I am asked is, “What is Songkran like?” Some people have heard stories and end up terrified, as if the whole country were about to implode. It’s difficult to explain what Songkran is like. If I told you what the final night of the Vegetarian Festival is like in Saphan Hin, you wouldn’t be able to appreciate the spectacle without seeing it.
Songkran is celebrated April 13 to 15. On days of water play, people’s offensive method range from sprinkling water on passers by to throwing barrels of iced water over random strangers. This is Thai New Year and it’s amazing to see everyone – male, female, young, old – enjoying themselves.
The level of carnage is dependent on where you are. In Bangkok, it’s chaos on Khaosan Road for three straight days. Similarly, in Silom, RCA, Ratchada – people go nuts. On Koh Chang, however, the water play is focused on drenching motorists on one day only. Traveling in a songthaew is a ticket to regret.
On Koh Samui, for the island’s one main day of play, the action is based in Chaweng. The street becomes an all-out war zone. I have yet to visit Chiang Mai, but I’m told it’s unbelievable during Songkran.
In Phuket, where I will be for the duration of the festivities, the party happens in a big way in Patong, as you’d imagine.
During Songkran, it’s impossible to avoid becoming soaked. Those tourists foolish enough to attempt to pass through water zones inconspicuously are usually the people who end up the wettest. There is no mercy. If you’re driving a car and your window is open, you’ll know about it. If you’re riding a motorbike, you’ll still be attacked.
Water guns can be bought anywhere where there is water play. They’re usually expensive – about 350 baht a pop – so you’re better off buying them a few weeks before the festival.
As well as water, people cover each other with talc. It’s harmless, but it will make a mess of your clothes and hair. The most fun to be had during Songkran is on the back a pickup. People drive their trucks, loaded with barrels of water, through areas where people are playing water. I’m hoping to be on the back of someone’s truck tomorrow.
Songkran was traditionally a time to visit family, but Thai people’s fun-loving side, coupled with the eagerness of tourists to become involved, has given the festival a new slant. The water is said to be a way of showing respect to other people and the talc is supposedly a reference to the plaster used by monks to mark blessings.
Hundreds of people in road accidents during Songkran. I have no intention of riding my bike anywhere for the next three days.
Enjoy the holidays.