I've been in Indonesia these past couple of months. Here are a few photos of what I've been up to. Lots more on FlickR.

Last September I decided that I wanted to learn Bahasa Indonesia. This is the first time in my that I’ve really tried to master a language. I learnt French and German for a few years when I was younger, but at that age I didn’t care much for anything I was taught in school. After the three or four years I spent in Thailand I picked up enough Thai that I could hold simple conversations, but I didn’t delve too deep into it, which was always one of my regrets.

Living in Timor-Leste, I was, at first, keen to learn Tetum. I bought the language book everyone seems to have and I ploughed through the first half-dozen chapters, but after that I became lazy and always found other things, mostly work, to do instead.

With this cloud of shame looming over me, I took up the challenge of learning Bahasa Indonesia, partly because it’s spoken in Timor-Leste, but most of all because I’m aiming to gradually move myself into Indonesia, part of which includes hopefully doing my masters in Southeast Asian studies later this year.

As far as the language goes, I started in September by downloading free material from a couple of websites. This helped me pick up the basics by myself. Work took a backseat for a few weeks as I spent much of my time going through various exercises.

At the end of October I went to the IALF Language Centre in Bali and did a couple of weeks’ one-on-one tuition. It was expensive, but gave me a better understanding of how the verbs work. At the end of it they gave me a certificate and said I’d passed their Level 3, although it isn’t accredited. IALF also does regular classes, two hours a day over four weeks.

I got a lot of material for IALF, which I carried on using after I’d finished studying there. I also bought myself a couple of books, including Bahasa Indonesia: Book Two by Yohanni Johns, which is particularly useful.

I started buying newspapers and watching a lot of television. The channels in Indonesia show Western movies with Bahasa Indonesia subtitles every day. So I’ve been reading my books and watching films and listening to Indonesian music.

With the basics nailed, I’m now in Salatiga, Java, doing a six-week intensive course at Satya Wacana Universitas Kristen’s Language Training Center. The course is accredited by the Australian National University (ANU) and it seems to be regarded as one of the best around for Indonesian language.

I took a placement test and was put on the Level 3 (of six) course, which is equivalent to ANU’s 2A. We get about 72 contact hours over four weeks and there are quizzes, tests and a field assignment. We just finished the first week and it was hardcore.

Most of the other participants here are ANU students. They’re all about 18 or 19, I think, so I feel a bit old (I’m 27). Most of them know each other and they’re all pretty lively.

I’m not so interested in the course’s cultural activities or the social side of being here. The only reason I’m on this course is to improve my language skills. Saying that, I’m enjoying the learning process and find myself itching to get to class every morning.

The course is rather expensive compared to others (AU$2,685), but the fee includes accommodation with an Indonesian family and all my meals. I don’t have to pay for anything really expect 2,000 rupiah each way to school and back by angkota.

The house I’m staying in is modern, I have my own room, the family are great and I’m very well fed. I will be here until February 13, but I’m still contactable by email if needed.

I think Kuta has become my new favourite place for people-watching. There are so many drunk Aussies roaming around that it never fails to be amusing. Last night I was sat by the beach trying to get the Wi-Fi signal from McDonalds when a fat, blonde, drunk Aussie pulled up on a motorcycle with two skinny Aussie girls riding pillion.

The fool tried to park in the middle of the road and got shouted at. The got off and he then tried to move his bike, pulled the throttle too hard and did a rather comical wheelie about 10 metres up the street. I don't know how he didn't fall off.

He then pulled into the bit where all the bikes are parked, crashed into the motorcycles on either side, knocked his own bike over and then picked it up as if nothing had happened.

The muppet shouted to a man passing by, "I paid your dad 50 bucks to XXXX in his mouth in the Philippines."

This charming individual next went into McDonalds and came out to proclaim to the world that he and his girlfriends had bought three triple cheeseburgers and a fillet-o-fish.

"Let's get more beers," he yelled.

I’m not particularly keen on the whole “travelling” thing. There’s something I don’t enjoy about the feeling of being in a place and having no idea where to go or what to do. When I see backpackers traipsing around with their guidebooks in hand and huge bags slung over their shoulders, I feel sorry for them because they may as well have a sign floating above them that says, “I need help, I don’t know where I’m going.”

So for those reasons, I try and avoid any form of excursion or trip or sightseeing outing organized by a tour group. Call it irrational, ridiculous pathetic — sure — but that’s how I feel. I do make exceptions, of course, like when I went to Viqueque and stayed at my friend’s eco-lodge.

Anyway, I was in the far-northern part of Bali this week, in a place called Lovina, next to Singaraja. It’s a quiet place with few tourists, although in Lovina there’s a little spot full of guesthouses and bars and people offering “transport!” and “bakso!”

Somehow, I’d let myself be persuaded to go on a dolphin hunt. The idea was that we’d get up at 5.30 am, go on a boat and see some dolphins. I wasn’t enthralled about the idea. Nothing against dolphins, but I just don’t find them particularly exciting.

It was, however, worth paying the six bucks to go out in the boat and just feel the sea breeze. The only problem was that there were about 30 other boats full of people with similar ideas. It was most bizarre. There were all these outrigger boats and each time there was a dolphin sighting, all the boats would speed over to them same place.

It’s true that dolphins are exceptionally smart. Those little porpoises have made a game out of leading a bunch of idiots around the sea for an hour every morning. The dolphins have it sorted: they show up at the surface for a few seconds, wait for the frenzy to begin and then go off and hide for 10 minutes while everyone frantically tries to get their cameras out to take pictures.

It was a really sad spectacle. We saw more boats than dolphins. It became rather exhausting after a while and I eventually forgot all about the dolphins and started daydreaming about nothing in particular.

We were back on shore by 9 am and hounded by locals trying to sell us small wooden dolphins. I’d recommend paying someone to go out on a boat, but forget about the dolphins and just cruise around for a bit.

Incidentally, it only takes a couple of hours to get from the Kuta area to Singaraja, right at the top of Bali. It’s a pleasant ride of about 90 kilometres and we did it on a moped.

Oh, and there were some dolphins…

Today is Christmas day and I find myself in the middle of nowhere in the French countryside. It’s freezing cold and about 9 am as I write this. This year, I’ve been in Phuket, Bangkok, Bali, East Timor, England, Singapore and France. It has been a good year in many ways, but it’s had its ups and downs. I hope to build on this year’s achievements in 2009 and take over the world by 2010.

Like the last three years, I didn’t write a single Christmas card for this holiday season. I also didn’t buy any presents, which would perhaps explain why I didn’t receive any.

Last night we watched my brother’s Roseanne boxset. I’m not kidding. He has boxsets of the television show Roseanne. Like you, I struggled to fathom the idea of anyone even thinking of buying such a collection of DVDs, but low and behold, my brother did it. The show is actually a lot funnier than I remembered.

I’d like to wish everyone a happy Christmas, regardless of whether you know me.