Happy Songkran
At this time of year, the most common question I am asked is, “What is Songkran like?” Some people have heard stories and end up terrified, as if the whole country were about to implode. It’s difficult to explain what Songkran is like. If I told you what the final night of the Vegetarian Festival is like in Saphan Hin, you wouldn’t be able to appreciate the spectacle without seeing it.
Songkran is celebrated April 13 to 15. On days of water play, people’s offensive method range from sprinkling water on passers by to throwing barrels of iced water over random strangers. This is Thai New Year and it’s amazing to see everyone – male, female, young, old – enjoying themselves.
The level of carnage is dependent on where you are. In Bangkok, it’s chaos on Khaosan Road for three straight days. Similarly, in Silom, RCA, Ratchada – people go nuts. On Koh Chang, however, the water play is focused on drenching motorists on one day only. Traveling in a songthaew is a ticket to regret.
On Koh Samui, for the island’s one main day of play, the action is based in Chaweng. The street becomes an all-out war zone. I have yet to visit Chiang Mai, but I’m told it’s unbelievable during Songkran.
In Phuket, where I will be for the duration of the festivities, the party happens in a big way in Patong, as you’d imagine.
During Songkran, it’s impossible to avoid becoming soaked. Those tourists foolish enough to attempt to pass through water zones inconspicuously are usually the people who end up the wettest. There is no mercy. If you’re driving a car and your window is open, you’ll know about it. If you’re riding a motorbike, you’ll still be attacked.
Water guns can be bought anywhere where there is water play. They’re usually expensive – about 350 baht a pop – so you’re better off buying them a few weeks before the festival.
As well as water, people cover each other with talc. It’s harmless, but it will make a mess of your clothes and hair. The most fun to be had during Songkran is on the back a pickup. People drive their trucks, loaded with barrels of water, through areas where people are playing water. I’m hoping to be on the back of someone’s truck tomorrow.
Songkran was traditionally a time to visit family, but Thai people’s fun-loving side, coupled with the eagerness of tourists to become involved, has given the festival a new slant. The water is said to be a way of showing respect to other people and the talc is supposedly a reference to the plaster used by monks to mark blessings.
Hundreds of people in road accidents during Songkran. I have no intention of riding my bike anywhere for the next three days.
Enjoy the holidays.
April 12th, 2008 at 5:34 pm
Happy Songkran, enjoy the party and be carefull….
April 13th, 2008 at 1:27 am
I thought the pickups were supposed to be illegal this year. Watch out.
April 13th, 2008 at 8:18 am
There’s plenty of pick-ups around. Happy Songkran everyone.
April 13th, 2008 at 9:43 am
Thanks for the info about Songkran!
April 13th, 2008 at 11:42 am
The usage of water is to wash away the previous years “bad” luck :)
Enjoy!
Today in Bangkok was manic! Lot’s of fun!
April 13th, 2008 at 4:58 pm
Happy Songkran to you too! ;-)
April 14th, 2008 at 11:26 am
I’ve got some Songkran photos up on my blog. I reckon next year we’ll ride around the pick up truck. Try to convince my wifes family to come to Phuket for Songkran so we have a small army in the truck :)
April 18th, 2008 at 9:10 am
Thanks for the write-up and the good summary.
Most of it is not as hectic as Chaweng, but Songkran happens everywhere on Samui. At most establishments (like hotels, for instance) the staff gather out in front - loud music pounding on outdoor sound systems - a long hose is extended and used to keep a plastic garbage can or two filled with water. Smaller buckets and water guns are then used to get water out of the big garbage can and on to everybody. Passers-by are waved down, asked to stop, and then usually permission to bless them is requested (though NOT always), and then they are doused with water and marked with the mixture of talc and water.
Folks should keep in mind that most of Thailand is very, very hot. The water feels great and the mixture of water and talc feels cool and pleasant and has a fresh smell.
It is important to mention that alchohol is consumed in large quantities all day by many of the participants - the atmostphere is similar to an outdoor barbeque / water party for the whole country.
Again, thanks for the post. It is very informative.
All the best,
Paul Valente
The Best of Samui
Resorts and Hotels on Koh Samui
April 18th, 2008 at 9:31 am
Songkran on Samui was a heck of a lot of fun.
April 21st, 2008 at 5:25 am
Songkran sucks. I can handle a one-day water fight or maybe even for two days. But in Chiang Mai it just goes on and on and on to the point of ridiculous. Where else in the world would you find such inane activity? I suppose in a nation where the average IQ is below 90? Oh, but people say it’s so much fun, right? Alright, where’s the fun in this: I arrive in town and am forced to take a samlor to my guesthouse. I sit in the carriage and my bag with all my clothes is strapped to the back. Some biatch shows up and wishes to drench me, which is ok by me, but apparently that’s not enough and she feels the need to throw a bucket of water on my backpack, literally soaking everything inside. I hate Songkran. It was fun for a day, and then it just sucks.